VW Golf VI 2010 Hatchback with 98320 KMs have a Battery drainage


VW Golf VI 2010 Hatchback with 98320 KMs have a Battery drainage.
Hi Scotty and Community,
Almost a year a go I had an accident with someone bumped in to my stationary car in the parking lot. Since it was not a major impact it only damaged the head light and the fenders on the driver's side.
One day after the accident the DPF activated and after the panel beater repairs the vehicle turned in safe mode and I had to take it to the dealer to activate the DPF and while the vehicle was there I asked to scan the computer and check if there are any other issues. They provided a scan report that was showing no issues with the car.
At the time I picked up the vehicle from panel beater also the battery was drained completely and I had to jumpstart it. I also found out that the panel beater personnel had to do the same thing when they needed to relocate the car during the repairs.
Since it was an old battery I decided to change it, and not through the VW dealer but myself not knowing about the german "super tech requirements" in the replacement of a battery.
I purchased a specifically diesel battery but as I found later on the track because the battery was draining over the weekend when vehicle was not being used for two days, that the battery has to be "specifically made to fit with the VW vehicles technology" also with a BEM sticker and to be programmed by the VW dealer mechanics...
During the struggle finding the issue with this battery drainage I've replaced the battery again as I thought that the new battery was faulty. I checked the alternator charging voltage with a specific tester at the battery shop and apparently it was good (13.7V to 14.5 V). I have checked the parasitic drainage where, strangely enough, first time showed that the stereo was consuming around 12mA. I removed the stereo fuse but after two days the battery was still discharging and did the test again and this time it was showing that the interior cabin lights are using too much power and removed the fuse. After another two days still battery very low in power and have it checked again and found the screen wipers system was draining the battery this time.
I concluded that the battery is not correctly configured and this might cause this havoc. I purchased a Autel200 OBD2 scan tool and tried to configure the car's computer with it but whatever I tried to configure in the BMS feature of this app it did not work and the battery was still drained in two days time.
Three days ago I went to a VW dealer and had the battery replaced with the "proper VW approved one" and after a day while the car was not being used at all I checked the new battery's voltage in the car and it was 11.7V. Have checked on my second car which was stationary for the same amount of time and it had 12.5V.
This evening, I did a research on your website specifically in the Ask Scotty Community page for battery drainage issues and someone suggested to check the battery voltage while the car is running. I checked and found 13.8V in the VW and also checked on my second car, a brand new Toyota VAN and it had the same value of 13.8V.
Not sure what to check anymore.
Can you please advise what could be the issue as this is going too far for me to comprehend. If there is a major issue like the computer or alternator, how can I go back to the insurance and prove them that the issue occurred after the impact due to the whiplash or during the repairs?
Thank you for your help!

Comments (2)
No. 1-2

Hey Scotty, I finally went to the VW dealer/stealer to check the cause of my car's battery drainage and got reaped off by $400 bucks to find that the battery discharging was caused by the AC climate control unit. The cost to change this unit with a brand new one through the dealer was quoted for $1175 for the unit itself plus $384 for the rest of the work.... How about that for a day-light burglary?!
I chose to pay the fault finding and I hope to find a secondhand unit to replace it myself.
When I pickup the vehicle I asked them if I have to return to configure the new unit in to the car system. They said yes and just to configure the new unit will cost me approx. $250.
Since I do not trust this people at all I wanted to ask your opinion so my question is:
Do I need to go back to a dealer to program the unit, or is just a plug and play?
Thank you and regards,


Ask for supplement to repairs, insurance may resubmit for issue, but it's a maybe,