Scotty I need your help with my truck. Below is the knowledge of the vehicle and the resulting problems. Your adice and counsel is greatly appreciated.
Scotty my 2011 Ford Ranger 4.0L V6 loses power while driving and will pop, sputter and spit. No response to accelerator. No cel or codes at all. The truck would "bog down" losing power while driving. The fuel filter was removed, inspected and replaced. It had some water and trash in it even though it only had 10K on the filter. The fuel tank was removed to see if fuel had water but none was found. The sock filter was filthy but can't be replaced without buying a fuel pump ($260). The sock was cleaned and the fuel pump re installed and fuel tank assembled to the vehicle. The truck did the same losing power, popping and when accelerated no power. I then tried a fuel pressure test. When the vehicle was turned on no pressure was noted. After a short time the pressure rose to 30 psi. The truck was cranked and the pressure rose to 50 psi and then to 65 psi. The needle would fluctuate erratically and rapidly. I decided the problem was fuel related and as a result I replaced the fuel pump with no improvement. I inspected and cleaned the MAS AF Sensor, Throttle Body and EGR Valve. Still no improvement. Approximately 8 months earlier I had replaced the spark plugs with no problems. Approximately 2 weeks prior to the problems the battery was slightly smoking and I replaced it again with no problems until about two weeks later when all this began ($95). I took it to the shop where it was scanned and I was told the voltage regulator was bad and over charging. The alternator was replaced ($235). The mechanic also suggested that as a result the voltage may have damaged the PCM. Since the vehicle continued with the same problems I replaced the PCM ($300). I was told it would be "plug n play" but that was not true. Now the truck would not start so the keys had to be programmed at the "STEALERSHIP" that is the only place it can be done at a cost of $105. The truck still would not run right. So I returned it to the shop since the STEALERSHIP was not interested in helping. The exhaust was disconnected and the truck seemed to run like it was supposed to. The catalytic converters were blocked. At a cost of $500 they were replaced and the truck now has power but will still pop and lose power then immediately catch back up and run continuing this way. When there is no CEL its like shooting in the dark. The mechanic is trying to help me but can't seem to locate the problem. To update you the following is a list of replaced or inspected parts.
Alternator Battery Fuel Filter Fuel Pump (gasoline that was in the tank when problem began) Catalytic Converters Crankshaft Position Sensor Camshaft Position Sensor Throttle Position Sensor Throttle Body checked and cleaned Idle Air Control Valve Coil Pack Ground Checked (Status OK) Cylinder Compression Checked (Status OK) Spark Plugs Checked No Known Vacuum Leaks MAS Sensor (Cleaned Checked & OK) Fuel Lines Checked & Fuel Pressure is Normal (even when power loss occurs)
I have racked my brain trying to determine what the problem is and with no codes or CEL I feel that it is definitely an electrical problem. On my truck there is an aftermarket cruise control and It was considered that the possibility existed that the cruise control module that is installed to the PCM speed sensor wire may be interferring with the PCM causing the problem. It was disconnected but there was no change.
Consider the following and let me know your thoughts.
I fly model R/C Airplanes as a hobby and they operate off of LiPo Battery Packs which require recharging. So I "rigged" a method with which to recharge the LiPo battery packs. I installed an older "gel cel" deep cycle battery to use to power a 400 Watt power inverter that is used to run the small battery charger used to charge the LiPo batteries at the flight field. The battery was previously used to store power from 2 solar panels on my camper. It is an expensive battery and is 12VDC but I figured that I could use it with no problem.
The auxillary battery as described above was installed in parrallel circuit with the vehicle battery (12VDC) using an isolator switch approximately 12 months ago. The assumption is that when the truck is not running the two batteries are isolated from each other and this is when the auxillary battery is used to recharge the LiPo battery packs for the airplanes. When the truck is running the isolator switch will open allowing the charging system in the truck to recharge both batteries.
Being stupid I did not consider that a deep cycle gel battery would require more voltage (amps) from the alternator in order to be recharged. If you recall the circumstances of the fuming battery of the truck needed to be replaced along with the alternator approximately 2 weeks afterwards.
I theorize that the circumstances of my problems were self inflicted (or I shot myself in the foot) by failing to considering this to begin with. I think that as a result the voltage regulator in the alternator was open and became stuck trying to keep up the auxillary battery and overcharged the weaker vehicle battery and also affecting the circuitry of the pcm causing all my problems initially and over the year it was operating lead to or contributed to the other problems in a domino effect. I feel that there is a problem with the wiring being damaged that is causing my current problem eventhough all modifications are disconnected and the problem continues to exist.
The problem is that if this theory is true; how do you suggest that I determine where the wiring problem is likely located and how to properly repair it? I hope I have not completely confused you with this convoluted situation and you may have some advice that will lead to repairing my truck that has not been operating for over 2 months. I do miss my truck. Ant help or advice you may be able to give will be appreciated and followed. I will also let you know the results.
If I could offer advice to anyone it would be to never consider adding or modifying any newer vehicles as I feel that to do so is to ask for problems you do not want or need.
Thanking you for you help in advance.
Best regards,

No. 1-2

OK Thanks Scotty will do. I know this mechanic has a scan but I don't know it's capability. I have seen it once and it resembles a laptop computer that hooks into the OBD II connector in the cab of the truck. I am not familiar if he has other diagnostics in his shop or not. Thanks for all your help.



realize cats for bad for a reason, changing out the cat made it run better, but the real problem is not fixed, and over time your new cat would go bad again. And your mod could have damaged the main computer and ignition and fuel injection systems. I would advise finding a guy like me, a real pro with fancy scan analytical computers to analyze the overall situation. For example, I use an ESCAN machine that can do tons of stuff just driving a vehicle around the block in top rpms in first gear, then get tons of info like volumetric efficiency, cat efficiency, REAL informative data on the problem that exists in a vehicle. So start with a guy who can do that at least for analysis.