I have two questions about two different cars. I could probably write two pages describing everything about the different problems and all the work/diagnosis I've done so far but I'll try to keep it brief....

First, I have a 2007 Civic. I started noticing that, especially when it's hot outside, my compressor kicks on and off very quickly. It works great otherwise. I've been over all the basic stuff like making sure it has the right amount of refrigerant, making sure the condenser is clean and the fan is working, etc. However, I noticed that the car gets really bogged down and the RPMs drop real low when it comes on. I know it could be a clogged exp. valve but I'm wondering if it might be electrical in nature (as in, there's a voltage drop when it comes on or shortly thereafter and it turns off due to that) because something as simple as putting power to the window motors while they're already down causes the RPMs to drop as well, almost to the point of killing the engine it seems. I haven't checked ground connections or total current while running yet. It seemed to help a little for a limited period of time when I added some fuel inj cleaner (I think). Could this be electrical? Is it likely air/water in the line or a clogged exp valve? The alternator is new and the belt isn't slipping (tensioner feels very "tense") I can perform all sorts of diagnostics to help answer this question if needed.

Also, I have a 2007 HHR that was given to me. It had about 200k when the motor started giving low output and the message "ENG PWR REDUCED". They took it in for an oil change and it never started again after that. We found that the timing belt tensioner was bad and it had slipped so we replaced that. Then, it still wouldn't start. We checked the fuel inj (seem to be spraying fine), sparks, etc, etc. We are getting codes related to the throttle position sensor but once we took a look at it and measured the voltages they seemed to be within the right range. We're thinking maybe the tensioner slipped and it jumped time again (it would not pop out just hitting it with a hammer so we had to try and put it in there already extended from what I remember). Soon I'm going to get in there and take a look but, am I barking up the wrong tree? Even though it's apparently a "problem vehicle" from what ive read it's worth fixing to me because I need it, it was free, I'll learn from it and its pretty much my only backup for when the Honda eventually goes belly up (almost 300k right now). But will I ever get the thing to work without investing a lot money? Should I just replace the TPS even though it looks fine? Also, since it has been sitting and not running for nearly 2 years, what should I do to make sure it will actually start once I get the problems ironed out?

Thanks in advance and I love your show!!

Comments
No. 1-2
CarDestroyer
CarDestroyer

How much current does a car like that typically draw with AC/lights off? my bet is that it would blow the fuse on my 10A multimeter. I'll just put the multmeter between negative on the battery and the frame wit the key in and check the current draw. Thanks!

ScottyKilmer
ScottyKilmer

sounds electrical cause mechanical problems wout not blow cold. things like the fans not cooling the condenser correctly or a system that's just low on refrigerant which hondas often do when that old

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