Hi scotty. Its me again. Another bearing question. Recently changed my cv joints. One came out…


Hi scotty. Its me again.

Another bearing question.

Recently changed my cv joints. One came out nice, probably been changed before. The other on driver side was stubborn as hell.
We tried a lot of things. In the end i thought about drilling it away and hammering so it could catch some loose on the inside and drop off but then halfway through i realized it wouldn't be possible since i didn't have a big enough drillbit and low enough speeds on the pressdrill.

I had to get it fixed to go to work so i used a welder and stainless rods to gouge away a part of the remaining metal (+/- 1/4" thick.) i made sure not to ground through the bearing. While i wasn't able to fully cut through the remaining thickness, the shrinking of the molten metal allowed me to easily hammer the stuck cv joint away. But the heat made the bearing bubble a bit. Nothing to big but it did bubble a little (maybe it was all that gunk we put on it trying to loosen the rust)

I been rolling 2 weeks now everything seems fine but i want to know if that operation could have started wear on the bearing.

After i was done "gouging" the hub was still cool enough to be handled quickly without welding gloves but it was probably a little hotter near the bearing core. I know rotors heat up from braking but i don't know how much jeat was put on there when i used the welder on the remainin 1/4 thick walls.

Also, is aluminum paper any good to fix an exhaust broken between manifold and cat. Converter? I dont want to take everything apart and weld it.

Comments (1)
No. 1-1


I doubt it damaged the bearing, but if it did, heck, it will start to roar when worn and you replace it. Aluminum may actually melt, I'd try steel and giant radiator clamps myself, we used to use old cans of beans, cut em, and wrap em around