Hi, Mr. Kilmer. I have a project 03 350z 167k miles that has been sitting for over 4 years because…

kalpzdose

Hi, Mr. Kilmer. I have a project 03 350z 167k miles that has been sitting for over 4 years because of a crank no start condition. It initially had trouble codes for a camshaft sensor, & all 2 camshafts & even a crankshaft sensor was replaced with OEM parts, but that didn't work so it was left alone. I think I already covered most of the basics: replaced battery, gas, oil, topped off coolant, replaced faulty coil packs & a sparkplug. I checked for fuel by listening to the fuel pump prime (I know I should be more thorough by checking fuel injectors as well but they're buried by the plenum), but it does sound like it's working. I checked for spark by testing the coil packs individually (2 were bad, but replaced all since generics were cheap) & replaced an out of spec gapped sparkplug (all sparkplugs were continuity checked with the engine & passed). No. 6 sparkplug bay was flooded with oil & maybe coolant because of green looking liquid? Hopefully it's not blown head gasket (please look at compression test results below for verification). I know that sparkplug seal is bad so I'll go with aftermarket valve covers. I thought air was a problem because the electronic throttle body wasn't opening with the accelerator pedal, but the throttle body passed the service manual's troubleshooting test (might've been a problem with resetting accelerator pedal and throttle body after replacing battery). I cleaned the throttle body & seems to work when trying to start according to OBD live data. I even did dry & wet compression testing of cylinders 1-6: (155/160), (130/160), (160/168), (120/145), (140/165), & (165/185). Do those numbers mean I should just do an engine swap or is there life still left on it? The only things I haven't done yet are timing & exhaust from FASTEC. Now I'm suspecting it's timing because during cranking, I'm getting 200 RPM & 63 degree high top value for timing advance cylinder 1 on the OBD live data. Can you really get timing from OBD live data vs timing gun? I did try opening some of the covers from the timing cover; found out primary chain was tight, but that's basically it because I couldn't see or feel the secondary chains or tensioners. There could be other things wrong like chain skipping teeth, bad tensioners, bad guides, but removing the covers isn't helpful until the entire timing cover is removed. I don't want to have to go through the trouble of taking off the timing cover only to find that that's not it. Would that be a definitive sign that there's something wrong with timing? If it's timing, is it OK to go with less than $100 aftermarket online timing chain kits vs $430 local auto parts one? Sorry for the lengthy description & questions. I'm just curious & want to learn how to fix this on my own. Thanks.

Comments (3)
No. 1-3
kalpzdose
kalpzdose

Just got a quote from Jasper, the engine alone is 3x the value of the car NOT including installation. That's stealership price territory & if it's going that way, I might as well buy a used one.
If I go with a junkyard engine, can I swap with a G35 if a 350z's not available?

Scotty Kilmer
Scotty Kilmer

Editor

engine swap, 125 to 165 is too much wear