Hey Scotty, I am hoping you might be able to give me some ideas, I watch your videos. But i'm…


Hey Scotty,

I am hoping you might be able to give me some ideas, I watch your videos. But i'm going to explain what is going with my 1996 Nissan Pathfinder with the 3.3 L engine.

I've had it for a couple years now and I have replaced the water pump, timing belt, O2 sensors, knock senor, plugs, all of that last year.

I have had occasionally problems with it dying backing up on a slight grade, but it wasn't a big issue to me.

but here about two weeks ago I was driving it and it hiccuped like I was low on fuel but it didn't die, I stopped and got gas, and then drove it for 30 miles with no issue and for the first time driving in a forward motion up a slight grade it died but again it started right back and I didn't think no more of it,

but then I drove back another 30 miles and while driving up a fairly steep hill it died, just like it shut off. I thought maybe the fuel pump but once I got it back home it didn't have any fire/spark. So thought maybe the coil went out, but not being able to buy just the coil we bought a new distributor and with that we got a new coil and camshaft sensor, put it in and timed it, it started.

but now when you start it and put it into reverse or drive it dies. but if you can get it into a gear by holding the idle up the car will go, spin it's tires and drives. but once you let off it will die.

from the time I got the car it had a bypass wire from the ignition switch to the distributor but there has NOT been any issue with that.

so we put the car on a scan tool, and it has three codes, one for the knock sensor and two for the downstream O2 sensors,

so we replaced the Knock sensor twice, oh we relocated the knock sensor last year the first time we replaced it and it ran for a year and a half where we located it. but back to this time we have changed it twice and the code is still there for it and we tested it it and we have 5 volts to it and 2.5 out, what it is required.

When we went to time it, I have seen where it is required to unhook the TPS, but when we unhook the top connector there is no change but when we unhook the bottom connector the car dies, we replaced the TPS sensor an it still does the dying on the bottom connector. we tested it and we have the proper reading of 5 Volts.

So Currently the car starts and Runs and Idles good and Revs good. But will died when put into reverse or drive once it is warmed up.

When placed into any drive gear the idle drops under 500 RPMS.

This is pretty much all I can tell you off the top of my head,

Thank you for your time and help, Sheila

Comments (1)
No. 1-1
Scotty Kilmer
Scotty Kilmer


pressure test both the fuel pump and the catalytic converter first, they both go bad commonly