Hello Scotty, Hope all is well. I have a question about my car I asked you a while back on, its 2014 chevy malibu LS 2.5 liter 4 cylinder with a little over 168,000 miles. Now originally, I had a DTC…


Hello Scotty,

Hope all is well. I have a question about my car I asked you a while back on, its 2014 chevy malibu LS 2.5 liter 4 cylinder with a little over 168,000 miles. Now originally, I had a DTC P305F, then followed a TSB about that as well as if it came with 2 other DTCs P058B and P058D. I have replaced the Dual Battery Control Module and tightened all connections as well to that, cleared the code and it never came on.

Lately my check engine light came back, but it was P058B code which is to do with the current monitoring performance even followed the directions for the original P305F code TSB on it, also did like you said and checked all connections, made sure all were tight as well, then checked voltage, ohms and continuity on everything all around the main battery and the auxiliary battery. Had both batteries even load tested a couple times at a couple Autozones too, wasn't till recently another Autozone tested both that said both were good but auxiliary battery needed charged. Had my main battery load tested again and it was good at a garage I go to time to time and said it had 940 CCA on it. I have a Innova 3160g scan tool and RepairSolutions app on my phone and it tells me to replace current sensor and be about 25 bucks myself or a repair shop 250 or so.

I did replace the loop current sensor down on the ground cable going from battery to framework as well as tested it, all was tight and good. I am wondering about the 2 wire connector though that connects to the battery sensor module on my main battery negative terminal though, I have looked and studied and referenced all wiring diagrams other layouts of stuff but can't seem to understand what I am doing wrong to see about needing a new one or not, then the model number given for it I have looked up and apparently doesn't exist at many places unless it's a dealer available part. I just know it took the dealership like for a month and a half and 3 to 4 trips back and forth to them and being without my car for that whole month and a half middle of last year. They said originally my car main battery had a dead cell and replaced it, then said no codes came up for issue being described, but it kept not wanting to start and many other problems on it all relating to the battery and aftermarket car alarm which in that time they said needed to be reset as well as later removed. They even did a load test as well and said the alternator and battery were good as well after that mess. I did pay like 500 to 600 bucks for that horror show too and was good for a couple months, now back to the drawing boards again on it. Swear my car's CEL has come on more in the past 2 1/2 years of owning it, while my wife's 2006 Nissan which has around 2006 Nissan Altima S special edition for the past 3 1/2 years has only come on 1 to 2 times. It's crazy I know and know you probably tell me to junk the Chevy too like many of your videos hahaha.

I am just trying to see if my connector to the negative battery terminal battery sensor is bad or if the battery sensor is bad. My dash info display screen has been reading the past week or 2 on my battery voltage of anywhere between 13.2 volts to 14.7 volts as well, more times it ranges about 13.8 to 13.9 volts though. My check engine light comes on for a while and disappears and comes on too again after so many times as well as my service vehicle soon display which I read has to have the problem fixed before that goes away of course. I am just trying to see what's wrong here and which direction I am going in mostly, I did buy a new battery sensor too recently but haven't installed it yet too, mostly because trying to see if that is my root cause for this monstrosity of a headache haha.

Also replaced the battery sensor module a day ago and still operating the same, no real significant problems, but just a nuisance with that wonderful dreaded CEL on. I am actually going to check the wiring down under the fuse box and battery in the engine compartment in the next couple days as well, like you said check the wiring and I don't care if I have to go from there all the way to where ever, I am doing all I can to eliminate the problem, even looking up information thru online and Mitchell's 1 DIY too.