2004 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L Transmission Trouble Codes P0700 and 1776


Shift control module? individual solenoid fault? Trying to figure out if I need to drop valve body to get to shift solenoids- specifically for L/R, or if I can check power input/output and resistance somehow without taking it out on this particular car.
 What the car is actually doing is, it drives just fine up through  the gears until I am decelerating from the highway or from a 50 mph  coast, as coming to a reduced speed zone or traffic light to stop  altogether. At the lowest gears it's like it slips for a second then  kinda forces itself down into low (idle rpms at that point) as I stop at  a red light. So then what happens from that point is, I'll just have to  turn the car off and then turn it back on in order for the trans  communications to reset and let me go up through the gears again...until  the cycle starts all over, and it's back to slamming into lower gears  and having to turn the car off and back on at a complete stop. If I do *not*  turn the car off and turn it back on, the car will not up-shift from  low, and will take itself up to 3000+rpms if I let it (not a wise  behavior!), it just *refuses* to up-shift!

     I have a Haynes auto repair manual for my generation of Chrysler/dodge model(s) but it says nothing detailed that can help me with this predicament.So, after online research I was lead to buy a shift control module. But before I dug into swapping those out, something still didn't add up. (I recently replaced my alternator) So I cleared all the codes from my car's computer and went on a drive- this time with the scanner hooked up the whole time I was driving. The car's engine light came back on and the problem persisted. This time that 1776 code came up. Scanner said a solenoid was stuck in L/R...L/R solenoid stuck -or that's how I translated it.

     So now I'm feeling very distraught. I think I may have to drop the valve body altogether to get to the solenoids, or do I? Which one is it? Where is it?.. I can't find good videos or schematics on this car's valve body and solenoids. You see, I've never taken a valve body out, I have no experience there. I've done things to my cars throughout my life, usually routine maintenance stuff. I've never yet opened my engine, rebuilt one, dealt with the heavy matters on my own..

    My car has been in the garage up on my jack stands for a few days now. (I had to stop tending to it due to studying for an upcoming exam at school). I feel that testing the solenoids for their power outputs and resistances would be wise before I start pulling stuff off and apart, but can I even get to the solenoids to check them without dropping the valve body on this particular car? I need help... I've lost a lot of time already with this; I really need my car up and running.

     I may have left out details needed for additional clarity. If so, please ask and I'll try to give more detail in hopes of figuring this out. You probably already knew the root cause(s) within the very first paragraph. You seem so greatly knowledgeable and I need your knowledge, experience, and insight; I am very much stuck at this point, Mr. Kilmer. Any help you can offer me is greatly greatly appreciated! Thank you for your time!

Comments (2)
No. 1-2

That's right, I did forget to include the mileage, I apologize. And thank you for checking me on that, that's also important in dealing with vehicle matters and their diagnoses. The car has roughly 146,000 on it. I was willing to give it a shot to deal with it myself to avoid thousands of dollars taking it to a shop. Unfortunately, simply financing/buying another car is NOT an option for me, nor will be anytime soon. This is what I have to work with.



those trannys stink big time. And really, to analyze them you're pissing in the wind without a dealer scan tool to do bidirectional testing and data analysis. You didn't give the mileage, but if over 100 thousand miles, it will need a full rebuild if you want it fixed right anyway